Ford ranger lock right install

Remove wheels. Remove and hang brake calipers. Remove differential cover and drain fluid. Remove pinion shaft bolt and pinion shaft. Push axle shafts in and remove c-clips. Remove spider gears and side gears. Install the locker according to instructions which can be a little tedious getting everything lined up right , and re-install c-clips.

Install the springs between the locker halves and check spacing. Install new pinion shaft and bolt, then test operation according to instructions. Replace diff cover, fill with fluid, and reassemble everything else.

I have not heard anything about having to grind any gear teeth to install. I have 3. Perhaps the higher ratio ring gears make it harder to get the left c-clip back in. Originally Posted by AMS Grinding the tooth is only to reinstall the factory centerpin.

Some of the kits include a center pin that is notched on one side to install to slide past a tooth on the gear. Some people prefer the solid factory pin, so they grind the back half of one tooth to slip it in. I didn't watch the entire thing..

So yes, your correct. I should have clarified, that it's not an issue in any stock gear ratio in the only axle that's worth putting a locker into If you have a 7. I personally installed the No-Slip into a factory 8. It slides right in AND out. Thank you for clearing things up. I should be ordering mine within the next month. Join Date: Jan I have a lockright in mine, it locks up going around the corners so itll chirp tires, and youll hear it clunking around every once in a while when turning sharply..

Custom Interior. SOLD F 4x4 5. Coat the teeth of the couplers, drivers and the outer surface of the spacers with medium grease. The grease helps hold everything in place during the installation. Two thrust washers should have been removed from the carrier with the original gears.

These are reused. Two small slotted holes are in each driver for the shear pins. Put a little grease in each hole and then insert the pins until they are flush with the drivers. The spacers ride inside he drivers, and each spacer has a recessed and a flat edge.

The recessed edges of the spacers point in the same direction as the teeth on the drivers, as shown on the left. Now your ready to install the pieces in the carrier. Start by inserting the couplers in the carrier and slide the axleshafts through them. Differential cases that you can access through the rear differential cover. This installation is the easiest because you simply remove the rear differential cover bolts to access the differential case.

A summary of the steps are as follows:. Remove this bolt and the cross shaft can be removed. C-Clips hold the axles in place. On some vehicles, the axles are held in place at the outer ends of the axles near the wheels.

The thrust washers are re-used. If the vehicle uses c-clips they are put back in place. A second type of installation involves a vehicle with a third member. Third member style differentials are removed from the driveshaft side of the vehicle Ford 9 inch and most import vehicles. Installation in these types of differentials is easy once the third member is removed from the vehicle. Push on the bottom coils to be sure that the spring snaps in and is seated all the way. Rotate the drivers and do the same procedure for each of the other three pins and springs.

Reach in through the recesses with your fingers and be sure that the spacers are pushed outward, onto the couplers. Rotate the drivers so that the large recesses line up with the pinion shaft holes in the differential case.

If an axle shaft thrust block is being used, push it into the center of the assembly and line up the large hole with the pinion shaft holes. If in the vehicle, push the right axle shaft inward now, into the coupler splines, to mover the block to the center. Carefully insert the pinion shaft into the hole and guide it through the drivers, past the spacers and through the thrust block, if used.

It should insert easily by hand. If not, tap it in, being very careful not to get the inner end caught on something! Be sure to orient it so that its retaining pin hole will line up with the hole in the differential case figure 9. If the pinion shaft will not insert, or is hard to insert, be sure that the correct thrust washers are being used and that the spacers are oriented with the widest side opening fitting down over the coupler shoulder.

Rotate the drivers and couplers back and forth to be sure that they are not binding. Install the pinion shaft retaining pin. If the pin is solid, as opposed to a roll pin, slightly deform the metal on the side of the hole to help hold it in place see the shop manual. For C-Clip Axles only: Screw in and tighten the bolt. For differential cases out of the vehicle: The case should still be on the bench after the preceding steps; install the ring gear now and torque the bolts.

Proceed to the next section. Assembly of Differential Cases Into Vehicle thick ring gear; differential case was removed from vehicle. Clean the axle housing interior, cover, mounting surface and drain plug. Place the correct bearing races onto each end of the differential case. If shims are used, locate them near the correct ends of the case, ready to install.

Install the differential case in the carrier as described in the shop manual. Generally, this will involve placing the differential case and correctly located bearing races with one shim into the carrier and then tapping in the shim on the other side, or pressing the case in if the shims are already mounted under the bearings. In some designs a spreader for the housing may be required. Replace the bearing caps in their marked positions and torque the bolts to their correct value. Consult the shop manual for the exact procedure.

If your vehicle uses an axle shaft thrust block, be sure that the correct axle shims are in place at the outer ends of the axle shafts. In these designs there should be little or no end play. Inspect your work. Look for anything that is not correct.

Be sure that the drivers rotate back and forth smoothly, stopping at the pinion shaft. Use a light to see that the spacers and thrust block, if used are in place and that the springs are working properly. When the above installation steps are completed, all the parts should be in exactly the same positions as they were when the installation began.

If the differential case has been removed from the vehicle, the backlash and pre-load settings should be unchanged from before and no further adjustments will be needed. To be certain, rock the ring gear back and forth to see if the backlash appears to be the same as it was prior to the installation.

If not, it will need to be reset with a dial indicator as described in the shop manual. Rotate the ring gear one revolution to be sure that nothing is binding.

Your LockRigh installation should now be complete. As a preliminary test only, prior to the final test, rotate the tires back and forth transmission out of gear and drive shaft free. Note that the tires will NOT lock together — this easy-unlocking characteristic is a unique feature of the LockRight and is perfectly normal.

Watch to be sure that both sets of teeth engage and disengage. If they do, your installation has probably been done correctly and your LockRight is ready for its final test, described in Section 5. Note that the clicking sound is much louder now than what you will hear during driving because the cover is off and no oil is present. As an additional check to be sure that everything has been installed correctly, use a small ruler, vernier caliper or blade type feeler gauge.

The tolerance limits are between. If this distance is much over. Add gear oil. Note that we suggest using medium-to-heavy oils as recommended by the manufacture, unless the vehicle will be used in very cold weather. Section 4: Tire Diameters. To help assure a long life for your LockRight, tire diameters should be as nearly equal as possible. Do not change the inflation pressure to vary the rolling radius of the tire! This practice can be dangerous if one of the tires is under-inflated, producing excess heat, faster tire wear and more difficult vehicle control.

The best way to equalize the rotation is measure the circumference of all the tires, including the spare. If one tire is much more worn than the other one, they both should be replaced for safety reasons. Section 5: Testing Your Installation.